10/20/08

Stripe template

While I stripped the paint on the driver's side, I thought I'd play around with making my own stripe template. I'm a draftsman by trade so I'm used to laying things out to insure they work before making them. I'm also very anal about details and one thing I wanted to be sure of was that the stripe was exactly the same on both sides of the car, so I decided to create the stripe full size in my computer and then plot it out and trial fit it on the car until I had it exactly like I wanted it. Then it would be just a matter of mirroring the design to make the other side exactly like the first. It took me a few attempts to get the swoop similar to the TV car but I think I got it pretty close.

Here are some shots showing my template progressing toward the final design......

I pulled a revised swoop using 1/4" pin striping tape and stuck the side moldings on with tape to form a base line design for me to enter into the computer...
















With the baseline design loaded, I plotted off the first pattern and then kept modifying until I had the swoop like I wanted....





























































Once I had the swoop like I wanted, I plotted out the final template and started forward....





























































I was now pretty happy with the way the stripe looked. Was still a bit difficult to imagine the full effect because the old stripe was still visible, but once I got the passenger side stripped, it became pretty clear....























































































I originally did the point like the factory Limited Editions, but after seeing the stripe against the solid color of the bare metal, I reminded myself I was cloning the TV cars so I went back and tweaked the point to match the season 2-4 cars.......































I have plotted out the new point but haven't trimmed it nor attached it to the car to verify it's 100%. I'll be pulling the fenders off in the very near future so I may go ahead and trim the fender template and stick all the other templates and trim back on the car to have one last look before I knock off the nose. I'll post a picture of the final design when I do.

Until next time........

ZEBRA 3 OUT!

10/16/08

Take it all off!

With the driver side done, I turned my attention to the roof and then the passenger side. I misted the POR-STRIP on and let it do it's thing and the paint blistered and released from the sheet metal. Then I used my plastic spreader to scrape away the paint and followed up with a second coat to remove any remnants that might have been missed by the first application.
















The hardest part of the whole stripping process was fighting with the fricken spray bottle!! The first bottle I got with my initial gallon of POR-STRIP worked like a champ. A buddy was doing a little project at his home that required stripping some paint, so I gave him the last bit of my first gallon and the sprayer. I had already ordered a second gallon, so I called my local POR-15 rep and had him to bring me another sprayer when he delivered my order. The sprayer worked as it should at first but then it started acting up and not wanting to spray. I first thought the filter on the pick-up was getting clogged so I removed it. Worked for a while then it started acting up again, so I removed the spray assembly and cleaned it out and tried again. As before it worked for a while then petered out.

In frustration, I called the POR-15 rep and told him I was having problems with the sprayer and he said he would bring me another, so I called it a day before I really got mad and broke something. In about 5 hours, all I got done was the roof.
















He delivered the new sprayer during the next week and so the following Saturday I started on the sail panel and rear quarter. Just like the previous week, the sprayer started off performing great. Actually got the sail panel stripped and was doing the second coat when the sprayer started acting up. So I cleaned it out and again it started working correctly... for a short time.













































I told myself I wasn't going to fight it like I had done the week before, so I immediately called the rep and told him it was happening again. I asked him to call the factory and see if they had run into this problem before with the sprayers and he said he would. He called me back a bit later and said they were aware of the problem and what was happening was the POR-STRIP was basically eating the guts out of the sprayer and they didn't have a solution other than to brush it on!

He said he had another source that had industrial sprayers and he would get me one to try and see if it worked any better. He wanted to find a sprayer that would work with the stripper so he could really push the product at car shows and to restorers so I agreed to try it out for him. Again it would be later on in the week before he could get it to me, so I finished up the sail panel and played around with other things on the car for the remainder of the day.

The following Saturday, I began again with the new type sprayer. Started misting the quarter and adjusting the sprayer until I got the right pattern going. Once the ideal pattern was tuned in, I really went to town applying the stripper. Rather than shooting the entire panel at once, I started from the rear and worked my way to the door opening applying the stripper between the sculpt line to just above the wheel opening. once I had that area pretty well stripped, I proceeded to apply the POR-STRIP to the lower portions of the quarter. I finished the lower rear half of the panel then the lower front half. Once the quarter was finished I stripped the door jamb area.












































































From the quarter, I went to the door and once the door was done I did the front fender. As I started the front fender, the sprayer began to spray erratically. I fought it long enough to get the first coat on the upper portion of the fender, then while the stripped was doing it's job, I cleaned the sprayer in preparation for the second coat. Once I had scraped the upper portion of the fender I applied the second coat to the top and went ahead and applied the first coat to the center portion of the fender. As I was finishing the center section the sprayer started spitting again, so I limped it along until I had the panel done.































I thought to myself that I was almost done and to just keep nursing it until it won't spray any more before giving up, so I cleaned it out once again. Again I scraped off the previous application and went right into the second coat/first coat on the balance of the fender. I kept pushing it until I had applied the stripper to the balance of the panel then I once again cleaned out the spray assembly.

When it was time, I removed the loosened paint and applied the final application of the POR-STRIP, all the while counting to ten as it spit and spattered the stripper onto the fender until finally I was done.

I wanted so badly to throw the bottle across the shop into the wall, but I knew the type of luck I have! I could just imagine the bottle hitting the wall and splitting open and showering several of the new or classic cars stored nearby with paint stripper and the hot water I would THEN be in!! But I just set the bottle down on the work bench and counted my blessings that I was done applying the stripper... for now anyways! Still need to strip the hood, header panel, headlight buckets, deck lid and the bumper sight shields, but those can wait until another day (and spray bottle!!).

Once I had gone over the fender with the scraper, I wiped down the entire passenger side of the car with a wet towel to remove any remaining stripper. I also discovered the ONLY rust on the entire body of my car. It's low on the passenger fender just ahead of the lower front corner of the door and just behind the rocker molding. Roughly the size of a playing card and my guess is from leaves collecting inside the fender and rusting it away from the back side.
















With the stripper removed and the car wiped down, I then put a fresh Scotch-Brite wheel on my angle head grinder and lightly polished the newly exposed sheet metal to finish off any paint or body putty that might have been left behind. Speaking of bondo, the POR-STRIP will also remove it as well. Depending on how thickly it has been applied, the stripped will loosen it from the metal and it will scrape off just like the paint will, but you may have to apply several applications to remove any real heavy build up.














































Next step is to take the car downstairs to the wash bay and wash her down with plenty of hot water and a good scrubbing with a Scoth-Brite pad to get all of the POR-STRIP removed from all the nooks and crannies of the body to insure good adheshion of the two-part epoxy primer I will be applying... or I should say having applied. Don't know just yet what my painting skills are. I have purchased a cheepie automotive paint sprayer as well as a touch-up gun, so I might give at least the primer a shot. I figure I couldn't mess up too badly applying the primer... after all it'll be sanded and reprimed many times until the body is straight.

That's all for now.......

ZEBRA 3 OUT!

10/8/08

Take it off.......

After using a Scotch-Brite wheel to strip the damaged area of the roof and sail panel, I knew that's not how I wanted to strip the body. Created WAY TOO MUCH dust plus there was a question of how much heat the sheetmetal could withstand before it started to deform.

I have used POR-15 products in the past and was going to use their paint to coat the floor and chassis, so I looked through their catalog to see what they had to offer. I discovered their POR-STRIP paint remover so I called my local rep and ordered a gallon along with a spray bottle. The stuff has the consistency of water and the catalog said it wouldn't harm aluminum, fiberglass, window glass, chrome or weatherstripping.

The product arrived and I donned my heavy rubber gloves, respirator and safety glasses, grabbed my funnel and after shaking the POR-Strip vigorously for several minutes, I filled the spray bottle and got to it. Since I was working a vertical surface, it took me a few minutes to get the sprayer adjusted so it sprayed a fine mist onto the panel helping the stripper stay in place while it got busy releasing the paint.

Watching the stripper work reminded me of watching a horror flick when someone splashes holy water onto a vampire or acid onto someone's skin (well, minus the smoke of course!). At first it doesn't appear to be doing anything then gradually a blister will start to appear and begin to spread across the panel. The paint begins to wrinkle up and fall off the panel practically by itself!















After letting the stripper work for several minutes, I used a plastic spreader as a squeegee to scrape away the paint. A second application was applied to insure I got everything off. I worked one panel at a time starting at the sail panel and doing the rear quarter first before moving on to the driver's door and finally the front fender.














































Once the paint was gone, I wiped down the area with water to neutralize any remaining stripper, then went over the panels lightly with a Scotch-Brite wheel to remove any remaining paint. Once I had the panels clean, I applied a coat of POR-15 Metal-Ready to prep the surface for future paint as well as protecting it in the interim from developing any surface rust because of the zinc phosphate coating left behind when the Metal Ready dries.































With the driver's side stripped, it was time to work across the roof and down the passenger side. I'll cover that next time.

Stay tuned......

ZEBRA 3 OUT

10/7/08

Strip it....

With the interior and trunk floors stripped, I thought it was time to look into the bondo pigtails on the roof. So with a 3 1/2" Scotch-Brite wheel mounted in my trusty angle head grinder, I set about sanding away the paint on the driver's side sail panel....














































To speed removal of the bondo in the damaged area, I used a rubber mallet to hit the underside of the damaged area to break the filler loose from the sheet metal. I was then able to remove the majority of it in large sections by using a screwdriver to get under the putty and gently pry it away from the roof.

With the bondo ground away, I discovered two things. First, that the roof had suffered a severe blow in some manner and second, I was going to have to find another way of stripping the paint from the body because using the Scotch-Brite wheels created too much dust and more heat in the sheetmetal than I would like. In the following two pics, you can see the damage to the roof section and in the second you can see a couple pieces of the bondo removed from the roof (laying on the rear window package shelf between the left side speaker opening and the center defogger opening). At it's thickest point the bondo was about 3/16"-1/4" thick. Don't know how long it had been in place but it was still attached very securely to the roof metal.































Next installment, I show the rest of the paint being removed from the body.

Until then.........

ZEBRA 3 OUT