3/2/14

Blasted... Part 7

Well after SEVERAL weeks, I finally had a really productive playday! I have started the sand blasting of the chassis/underbody on the Tomato, but I was having trouble keeping the sand blaster operating in it's sweet spot. When it was in the zone, it would feed flawlessly and the years of grim and surface rust would vanish easily before my eyes... but don't stop! Once the flow was interrupted it was a real chore to find that spot again. Several weeks of very unproductive playdays had me ready to farm the project out, but I just knew there had to be a really simple solution to the problem because when it was working, MAN DID IT WORK!

I knew I couldn't be the only one on the planet who has faced this problem, so one day at lunch I did an Internet search for sandblasting troubleshooting and I came across a forum discussion someplace where a guy was having a similar issue. Reading thru the thread I learned there must be an air supply present at the pickup point for the media to be sucked up the tube or it would be kinda like trying to suck a really thick milkshake thru a straw. The  guys said once he added the air source, his sandblaster took on a whole new life!

Hmmmm, that had to be it, so I looked at how the sand was drawn into my Campbell-Hausfeld 5 gallon Power Blast blaster.....





















It's merely a 3/8" or so ID rubber hose sliced on a steep angle to provide a long pickup area that is totally submerged in the medium. I guess a larger/courser aggregate allows for more air to be contained in the material for easier draw, but as the sand gets used and reused a few times, it get smaller and and a bit smoother so it packs in tighter for less air and that's when it starts to act like a "thick milkshake".

My initial thought for the solution was to use a section of 1/4" od clear tubing like used on aquariums along with one of the t-shaped air control valves to control air flow (the forum article said something about too much air supply-no media / too little air supply-no air, so the supply would need to be controlled) installed into the pickup area of my blaster opposite from the pickup tube side so it would run directly into the media feed.....
























































With the breather assembly installed, I partially filled the hopper with sand, donned my protective garb and tried out my solution. After a second or two the media began to flow like she was in her sweet spot! I thought HOT DAMN I'M COOKIN' NOW and again the fresh clean metal began to grow and expand. It's a bit tougher blasting around the frame rails and up into the body frame cavity so there was a lot of time stopping to reposition the light, my body, the hopper... whatever and each time the flow would begin again after a second or two. I kept fiddling with the air control valve to see if I could tell if it was having any effect and I could tell there was a bit of difference from closed to fully open but not a great difference, so I finally just pulled the valve off to really let her breathe and it still sang and danced vastly better than before. At one point I tried to burp the line to see it sand would shoot from the air line and nothing came out so I thought SWEET I'M FINALLY HOME FREE and continued to blast away.... then suddenly the old gremlin reared it's ugly head! I monkeyed around with tipping the hopper, bumping the hopper all the old tricks from the past to get it "primed" but couldn't find the sweet-spot again. I thought WHAT THE HECK IS GOING ON NOW, so I rolled out from under the car to find out the problem.

When I dumped the remaining sand out of the hopper the problem became instantly clear.... my air hose was too short and when I burped the feed line, the hoses flexed and the air line came out of the feed line. So I need to pick up a longer section of the 1/4" clear line so I can feed it deeper into the pickup hose so they can't come apart when burped.





















I was happy that I finally have a solution to my blasting problem (I HOPE) and actually got more done it that hour or so I tested out the solution that I did the last several times I was able to play on the Tomato.....














































































































Since I was already out of my blasting gear and my daughter was on her way to the house for a visit, I decided to work on a couple little sub-projects... the material for boxing my rear control arms and repairing my rear sway bar links.

I picked up a couple long 1/4-20 carriage bolts from Fastenal and drove the shoulder down into the link bracket opening and voila...
























































Need to tack the bolt to the bracket, add a tube spacer and tack that into place and the links should be good as new!

I had a couple strips on 11ga steel cut at work to use for boxing the rear control arms and it looks like I guessed the correct width and length, so all I'll need to do is form them to the arms and weld them up once I have the arms blasted and coated inside with POR15....


















































All in all a pretty productive day... and I got to visit with my baby girl who we haven't seen since Christmas! I'm planning on making a day of it next weekend to wrap up the underbody blasting so I can next blast the rearend and get that little rebuild/detailing project underway before attacking the front suspension and forward chassis blasting.

Getting closer to turning things back over to the crew at F3!!!

More to come....

ZEBRA 3 OUT

12/24/13

Blasted... Part 6

Well, soaking the upper control arm nuts did the trick and I was able to get the upper arms removed without resorting to the BFI.....







































so now the rear end is ready for rebuilding and detailing....






























Next on the agenda was to get THE SHROUD OF TORINO in place to contain the sand during the blasting of the chassis......










































With the plastic in place, I turned my attention the breaking apart the original engine and transmission so the C6 can be sent out for rebuild and the 460 placed on an engine stand so the accessories can be removed, detailed and installed on the new motor...





































































Next play day I hope to begin the fun filled task of rolling under the car and sandblasting the underbody and chassis!

Stay tuned....

ZEBRA 3 OUT

12/7/13

Blasted... Part 5

Well went over today to finish removing the rear sway bar links and brackets from the frame and started breaking down the rear end.

First order of business was to remove the rear sway bar links. During the building of the Gran Torino's, Ford assembled the frames before they attached the body because removing the sway bar links and brakets was a real PITA! There is just NO ROOM the get at the nut holding the sway bar link to the bracket...


















and swing the ratchet, so what I had to do was get a ratchet and socket on the nut, wedge it up against the frame and use a breaker bar to spin the link out of the nut.....


















I was sucessful removing the passenger side with incident...






















but the driver side snapped just below the nut so now the search begins for a replacement...






















The next challenge was removing the frame brackets....

















As with the sway bar links, there isn't enough room to get good access with your ratchet and socket and get a good swing so you have to really pump the ratchet to get the brackets off.....



















































































I think when I put things back together, I'm gonna put the stud plate inside the bracket (left side) with the nuts on the outside of the frame crossmember to make things easier to reassemble...

















I also got the lower control arms, brake lines and sway bar removed from the rear end.....











































The upper control arm bolts were really on there tight, so I soaked them good with PB Blaster and hopefully next weekend using a BFI I'll be able to get them removed as well.

Until next installment....

ZEBRA 3 OUT